:root{
  --bg:#FBF6EC;--bg2:#F4EBD9;--card:#FFFDF8;--ink:#2A2016;--muted:#65584A;--line:#E4D7C0;
  --green:#17382F;--green2:#1F5F4A;--saffron:#D99A06;--terra:#C2410C;--teal:#0F8A80;
  --radius:16px;--shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(42,32,22,.06),0 6px 20px rgba(42,32,22,.06);
  --serif:ui-serif,"Iowan Old Style","Palatino Linotype",Palatino,Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;
  --sans:system-ui,-apple-system,"Segoe UI",Roboto,"Helvetica Neue",Arial,sans-serif;
}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth;-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*{animation:none!important;transition:none!important}}
body{margin:0;background:var(--bg);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--sans);font-size:16px;line-height:1.55}
a{color:var(--green2);text-underline-offset:3px}
a:hover{color:var(--terra)}
:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--saffron);outline-offset:2px;border-radius:6px}
.skip{position:absolute;left:12px;top:-60px;background:var(--ink);color:#fff;padding:10px 14px;border-radius:8px;z-index:2000}
.skip:focus{top:12px}
.wrap{max-width:1180px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 20px}
h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--serif);line-height:1.15;margin:0;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:-.01em}
h2{font-size:clamp(1.6rem,3.2vw,2.1rem);margin-bottom:6px}
.sub{color:var(--muted);margin:0 0 20px;max-width:62ch}
section{padding:44px 0 0;scroll-margin-top:12px}

/* header + hero */
.top{background:var(--green);color:#F4EBD9}
.top .wrap{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:12px;min-height:56px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.brand{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:700;font-size:1.1rem;color:#fff;text-decoration:none}
.credit{color:#F4EBD9;font-size:.9rem;text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(244,235,217,.4);padding:10px 0}
.credit:hover{color:var(--saffron);border-color:var(--saffron)}
.hero{background:linear-gradient(180deg,var(--green) 0,#1b4437 100%);color:#FBF6EC;padding:34px 0 52px;position:relative;overflow:hidden}
.hero:after{content:"";position:absolute;right:-90px;top:-90px;width:340px;height:340px;border-radius:50%;background:radial-gradient(circle,rgba(217,154,6,.35),rgba(217,154,6,0) 70%)}
.hero .wrap{position:relative;z-index:1}
.eyebrow{font-size:.8rem;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#E9C46A;margin:0 0 12px;font-weight:600}
h1{font-size:clamp(2.2rem,6.4vw,4rem);color:#fff;max-width:16ch}
.tag{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:clamp(1.15rem,2.6vw,1.5rem);color:#F4E3B8;margin:14px 0 0;max-width:40ch}
.intro{max-width:62ch;font-size:1.05rem;margin:18px 0 0;color:#EFE6D3}
.stats{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px;list-style:none;margin:24px 0 0;padding:0}
.stats li{background:rgba(255,255,255,.08);border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.18);border-radius:999px;padding:8px 14px;font-size:.95rem;display:flex;gap:8px;align-items:center}
.stats b{font-size:1.1rem;color:#fff}
.cta{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px;margin-top:26px}
.btn{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:8px;min-height:46px;padding:0 20px;border-radius:12px;font:600 1rem var(--sans);text-decoration:none;cursor:pointer;border:1px solid transparent;touch-action:manipulation}
.btn.primary{background:var(--saffron);color:#2A2016}
.btn.primary:hover{background:#E8AB1C;color:#2A2016}
.btn.ghost{border-color:rgba(255,255,255,.4);color:#fff;background:transparent}
.btn.ghost:hover{background:rgba(255,255,255,.1);color:#fff}

/* controls */
.controls{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:12px;margin-bottom:14px}
.row{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;align-items:center}
.lbl{font-size:.8rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.1em;color:var(--muted);font-weight:600;margin-right:4px}
.seg button,.chip,.tb button{font:600 .95rem var(--sans);min-height:44px;padding:0 16px;border-radius:999px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--card);color:var(--ink);cursor:pointer;touch-action:manipulation}
.seg button:hover,.chip:hover,.tb button:hover{border-color:var(--green2)}
.seg button[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--green);color:#fff;border-color:var(--green)}
.seg button .n{opacity:.7;margin-left:6px;font-weight:500}
.legend{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px 22px;list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;color:var(--muted);font-size:.92rem}
.legend li{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:6px}
.legend svg{width:24px;height:24px}
.status{color:var(--muted);font-size:.92rem;margin:0}

/* map */
.mapbox{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);overflow:hidden;background:var(--card);box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.tb{display:flex;gap:8px;padding:8px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--card)}
.tb button{flex:1 1 0;border-radius:12px;min-height:48px;font-size:1rem}
#map{height:clamp(380px,66vh,660px);background:#e9e4da;z-index:0}
.hint{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--muted);margin:8px 2px 0}
.leaflet-container{font-family:var(--sans)}
.leaflet-container a.leaflet-popup-close-button{width:40px;height:40px;font-size:26px;line-height:40px;color:var(--muted)}
.leaflet-popup-content-wrapper{border-radius:14px}
.leaflet-popup-content{margin:14px 16px;min-width:210px}
.pop h3{font-size:1.1rem;margin:0 36px 4px 0}
.pop .meta{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--muted);margin:0 0 8px}
.pop p{margin:0 0 10px;font-size:.92rem;line-height:1.45}
.pop .acts{display:flex;gap:14px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.pop .acts a{font-weight:600;font-size:.92rem;padding:8px 0;display:inline-block}
.pin{background:none;border:0}
.pin svg{width:100%;height:100%;filter:drop-shadow(0 1px 2px rgba(0,0,0,.4));overflow:visible}
.pin:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--ink);border-radius:50%}
.pl{background:rgba(255,253,248,.92);border:1px solid var(--line);box-shadow:none;color:var(--ink);font:600 12.5px var(--sans);padding:2px 7px;border-radius:6px}
.pl:before{display:none}
.cl{width:46px;height:46px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--ink);color:#fff;border:3px solid #fff;box-shadow:0 2px 6px rgba(0,0,0,.35);display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;justify-content:center;font:700 15px var(--sans);line-height:1}
.cl i{display:inline-block;width:7px;height:7px;border-radius:50%;margin:0 1px;border:1px solid #fff}
.cl .dots{display:flex;margin-top:3px}
.cl .v{background:var(--terra)}.cl .p{background:var(--saffron)}.cl .r{background:var(--teal)}
.leaflet-cluster-anim .leaflet-marker-icon,.leaflet-cluster-anim .leaflet-marker-shadow{transition:transform .3s ease-out,opacity .3s ease-in}

/* next up */
.next{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-left:6px solid var(--saffron);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:20px 22px;box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.next h3{font-size:1.3rem;margin-bottom:6px}
.next p{margin:0;max-width:70ch}

/* trail */
.trail{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;position:relative}
.trail li{display:grid;grid-template-columns:104px 1fr;gap:6px 18px;padding:0 0 22px;position:relative}
.trail li:before{content:"";position:absolute;left:104px;top:8px;bottom:-4px;border-left:2px solid var(--line);margin-left:-10px}
.trail li:last-child:before{display:none}
.trail time{font-weight:700;color:var(--green2);padding-top:2px;white-space:nowrap}
.trail .dot{position:absolute;left:104px;top:8px;width:12px;height:12px;margin-left:-16px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--terra);border:2px solid var(--bg)}
.trail .dot.p{background:var(--saffron)}
.trail h3{font:700 1.05rem var(--sans)}
.trail p{margin:2px 0 0;color:var(--muted)}
.note{color:var(--muted);margin:4px 0 0}

/* cards */
.grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(min(100%,320px),1fr));gap:18px}
.card{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:20px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:10px;box-shadow:var(--shadow);scroll-margin-top:16px}
.card[hidden]{display:none}
.card.flash{animation:flash 1.6s ease-out}
@keyframes flash{0%{box-shadow:0 0 0 4px var(--saffron)}100%{box-shadow:var(--shadow)}}
.card h3{font-size:1.35rem}
.top-row{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:8px;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center}
.badge{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:6px;font-size:.82rem;font-weight:700;padding:3px 10px 3px 6px;border-radius:999px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--bg)}
.badge svg{width:18px;height:18px}
.area{font-size:.88rem;color:var(--muted)}
.style{color:var(--green2);font-weight:600;margin:-4px 0 0;font-size:.95rem}
.card .why{margin:0}
dl{margin:2px 0 0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto 1fr;gap:4px 12px;font-size:.92rem}
dt{color:var(--muted);font-weight:600}
dd{margin:0;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
.acts{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px;margin-top:auto;padding-top:8px}
.acts .btn,.acts button{min-height:44px;padding:0 14px;font-size:.92rem;border-radius:10px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--bg);color:var(--ink);font-weight:600;text-decoration:none;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;cursor:pointer;font-family:var(--sans)}
.acts .btn.site{background:var(--green);color:#fff;border-color:var(--green)}
.acts .btn:hover,.acts button:hover{border-color:var(--green2)}

/* quotes + links */
.quotes{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(min(100%,320px),1fr));gap:18px}
blockquote{margin:0;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:20px 22px;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.12rem;line-height:1.4}
blockquote p{margin:0 0 12px}
blockquote footer{font:.85rem var(--sans);color:var(--muted)}
.links{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(min(100%,300px),1fr));gap:12px;list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}
.links a{display:block;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;padding:14px 16px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);min-height:44px}
.links a:hover{border-color:var(--green2)}
.links b{display:block;font-weight:600}
.links span{color:var(--muted);font-size:.88rem}

/* newsletter */
.news{background:var(--green);color:#F4EBD9;border-radius:22px;padding:30px 24px;margin-top:6px}
.news h2{color:#fff}
.news p{margin:0 0 16px;max-width:56ch}
.news form{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px;max-width:520px}
.news label{flex:1 0 100%;font-weight:600}
.news input{flex:1 1 240px;min-height:48px;border-radius:12px;border:1px solid #fff;padding:0 14px;font:1rem var(--sans);background:#fff;color:var(--ink)}
.news .msg{flex:1 0 100%;min-height:1.4em;color:#E9C46A;font-size:.95rem;margin:0}

footer.site{margin-top:56px;background:var(--bg2);border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:32px 0 40px;color:var(--muted);font-size:.92rem}
footer.site p{margin:0 0 8px;max-width:80ch}
footer.site .big{font-family:var(--serif);color:var(--ink);font-size:1.15rem}
@media (max-width:560px){
  .wrap{padding:0 14px}
  .trail li{grid-template-columns:96px 1fr}.trail time{font-size:.9rem;white-space:nowrap}
  .trail li:before{left:96px}.trail .dot{left:96px}
  .seg button{padding:0 12px}
  #map{height:clamp(360px,62vh,560px)}
  .tb button{font-size:.95rem;padding:0 6px}
  .news{padding:24px 18px}
}

.osm .leaflet-tile-pane{filter:grayscale(.75) sepia(.12) brightness(1.1) contrast(.82)}